How to wear a silk scarf: folds for the neck, hair and shoulders

A scarf changes as soon as it is folded. A whole drawing becomes a strip of colour; a border takes the place of the centre. Begin with the shirt or coat you are wearing, then decide how much of the silk you want to show.

For a square scarf, the simplest starting points are a triangle at the neck or shoulders and a folded band tied loosely at the front or side. The methods below also include ways to wear silk in the hair. Adjust every knot for comfort, and keep the fabric clear of rough fastenings.

Before you begin

Lay the scarf on a clean surface. Check its dimensions and look at the colours along the edges: they may be the most visible part after folding. Thackray’s square scarves measure 90cm × 90cm; our narrow Where Quiet Grows twilly is 88cm × 6cm. See the size guide if you are choosing between them.

The triangle fold

Lay the square flat and bring one corner to its opposite corner. Drape the long edge around the back of the neck, with the point at the front. Leave the point visible beneath an open jacket, or bring the ends forward and tie them loosely. This fold shows a broad part of the artwork.

A knot at the front

Fold the scarf into a triangle, then fold from the point towards the long edge to make a band. Place the band behind your neck and bring both ends forward. Tie loosely, check the position, then adjust the ends. Keep enough room to turn your head comfortably.

A knot to one side

Begin with the same narrow band. Tie it at the front, then move the knot towards one side of the neck. Look at which part of the pattern has appeared beside your face. A slight adjustment in the original fold can change it.

The knot at the back

Place the middle of a folded band at the front of the neck, then take the ends behind and tie them loosely. Use a mirror to check the result. Avoid a bulky knot where it would be pressed by a collar or the back of a chair.

Under an open shirt collar

Fold the scarf narrowly and let the shirt collar sit around it. Bring the ends through the open neckline, leaving the upper buttons as open as feels comfortable. If there is too much silk at the throat, refold into a slimmer band.

With a crew neck

A simple crew neck gives the scarf a clear place to sit. Try a narrow fold tied loosely at the front or side. Leave some space between the knot and the neckline so the two do not bunch together.

With a V-neck

Let a triangular fold occupy part of the opening, or try a narrow band with the ends following the line of the V. Check the balance while standing naturally. There is no need to fill the whole neckline with silk.

With a buttoned shirt collar

A narrow fold can sit inside an open collar or beneath the collar points. Put on the shirt first, then arrange the scarf. This lets you judge the space available without pulling the fabric tightly into place.

With a roll neck

Try a loose fold over the roll neck rather than crowding the throat. The knit already supplies volume. A little silk visible at one side may be enough to show the colour you wanted.

With a blazer or coat

Fold the square into a long band and let it lie inside the lapels, or tie it loosely at the open neck. Put the coat on and move your arms before making the final adjustment. The scarf should settle with the clothes.

As a headband

Fold the square into a band, place it across the head and tie the ends at the nape. Keep the knot comfortable and away from anything that presses on it. Silk can slip, so check the hold before setting out.

Around a ponytail or bun

Secure your hair first with a suitable hair tie. Add the folded scarf around the base, taking care that the knot does not pull. Let the ends hang if you want to show more of the design.

Over the head

Fold the square into a triangle and lay the long edge across the head. Bring the ends beneath the chin and tie loosely. Adjust the front edge so that it stays clear of your eyes and allows you to move comfortably.

Through a braid

Secure a folded scarf near the start of the braid and include it with the hair as you work downwards. Keep the tension gentle and secure the finish. Take it out slowly afterwards so that the silk does not catch.

At the shoulders

Open the scarf, or fold it diagonally, and lay it across the shoulders. A 90cm square gives a light drape rather than the coverage of a large shawl. Check the dimensions first if coverage is the main purpose.

With tailoring

Try one fold with the jacket open and another with it fastened. The lapels may hide most of the central drawing, leaving the border to do the visible work. Choose the fold that shows the part of the artwork you enjoy.

After wearing

Untie the silk gently and let it air before storing it. Follow the care instructions supplied with your scarf; our care guide explains what to check.

Explore the Thackray silk scarves. If a design catches your eye, read its story before choosing your first fold.